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We’ve entered an era where bare manicures are more popular than ever. So it might seem a bit contradictory that press-on nails are trending too—one quick TikTok search proves just how much people love them. But actually, the two go hand-in-hand (pun very much intended).
For those of us embracing naked nails, press-ons offer the perfect alternative whenever the moment calls for a polished look (just ask Suni Lee). They require less of a time commitment—for both application and wear—compared to gel manicures. And many people are also turning to press-ons to avoid the UV light required for gels, Mazz Hanna, a celebrity manicurist and CEO of Nailing Hollywood, tells SELF.
But that doesn’t necessarily mean that these temporary falsies don’t come with their own potential pitfalls. Here, experts explain the pros and cons of press-on nails—and share the best ways to minimize damage.
Are press-on nails bad for your nails?
Let’s start with some good news: “There’s nothing inherently bad about press-on nails and you don’t have to swear them off,” Omer Ibrahim, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Chicago, tells SELF. “The issues arise from improper application and/or removal,” Dr. Ibrahim explains. As long as you take the proper steps (see below), it’s totally fine to continue incorporating them in your manicure routine.
On the other, heh, hand, if you do things the wrong way, you’re definitely putting your natural nails at risk. When it comes to application, one of the most common problems is sticking the falsies on too tightly, notes Dr. Ibrahim. This puts excessive pressure on the natural nail underneath, which can cause surface indentations and may even injure your nail matrix, the area where new growth occurs, he explains. Ridges and dents—while maybe not the cutest—aren’t the end of the world and “usually disappear over three to six months, once the nail grows out,” he says. But damage to your matrix can stick around longer, and may ultimately cause your nails to grow out thinner or more slowly, he adds.
However, all of the experts we spoke with agree that improper removal (specifically overzealous pulling) is the most common culprit for press-on damage. The nail plate is made up of three different layers. If you rip off fake nails, you can end up taking off chunks of the outermost layer, Dr. Ibrahim says. The result? Everything from bumps and ridges to thinning to increased peeling to discoloration.
Dr. Ibrahim notes that he often sees people with white streaks or patches on their nails; the condition is called leukonychia and can show up when press-ons or gel manicures damage the keratin in the nail plate. The good news: While you may not like how this discoloration looks, it doesn’t cause any permanent problems and usually resolves on its own after a few months.
Another rare but real risk: If your press-ons are really stuck and you aggressively try to pull them off, you might even lift up the lowest layer of your nail plate, where your nail attaches to the skin underneath, Hadley King, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, tells SELF. It’s unlikely, especially if you’re being careful, but it is possible—and can be very painful and may even cause an infection. (Moisture and, subsequently, bacteria can accumulate in the space between the nail and skin, Dr. King explains.)
Simply wearing your press-ons for too long (more than two weeks) is also a bad idea. The longer you have them on, the more the adhesive starts to naturally break down, causing the artificial nail to lift up, Dr. King explains. You might not even notice this shift, but even a microscopic gap can trap and harbor moisture, turning it into a breeding ground for all kinds of microorganisms. Yeast and fungal infections of the nail plate, which cause yellow or white discoloration, are both possible. So is a bacterial infection of the surrounding skin called paronychia, which manifests as swollen, painful skin around the nail, she says. (If you notice any pus-filled abscesses, the symptoms continue to get worse, or you’re just in lots of pain, play it safe and see a doctor.)
Are certain kinds of press-on nails less damaging than others?
Eh, kind of. The experts we consulted agree that press-ons with sticky tabs are generally a better option than their traditional counterparts that rely on a separate glue. Why? There are a couple of reasons. “I always tell people to opt for nails with tabs if they just want them for a special event or only need them to last for a few days,” Hanna says. “They’re so much easier to remove—think of it as the difference between applying them with double-sided tape versus crazy glue.”
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Easier removal equals a lower likelihood of damage, although the derms we spoke with note another related advantage: The sticky stuff used in the tabs doesn’t contain methacrylates, ingredients found in many adhesives that are a common trigger for allergic contact dermatitis, Dr. King says. That’s a fancy way of saying that it’s very possible to be allergic to nail glue.
Signs of an allergic reaction include itchiness, flaking, and redness or darker discoloration, depending on your skin tone. But FYI, these might appear near your eyes, not your nails. The symptoms often show up there simply because you’re touching your eyes, where the skin is thinner and more susceptible to irritation, Dr. Ibrahim explains. “Any time we see an allergic contact dermatitis on the eyelids we ask about nail habits,” he adds.
But what about brands that claim their glue is gentler than the competition? Take those claims with a grain of salt. You technically can’t make glue gentler; these formulas usually just have fewer of the ingredients that commonly trigger allergies, Dr. Ibrhaim explains. They’re a good place to start if your skin is sensitive, but there’s no guarantee that you won’t have a negative reaction.
Are press-ons better for your nails than gel manicures?
Not necessarily. Gel manicures do require the use of UV light, which can theoretically increase your skin cancer risk (although more research is needed to prove definitive causation, as SELF previously reported). But both can do damage if you apply and/or remove them incorrectly—and both can also be totally fine if you take the proper steps, according to Dr. King. So, ultimately, it doesn’t really matter which mani route you choose, as long as you’re thoughtful and careful along the way. To that point…
How can you make sure press-ons don’t damage your nails?
Again, avoid putting too much pressure on your natural nails. “The adhesive really should be doing the work for you so that you can apply the press-ons with a light touch and not push too hard,” Dr. Ibrahim advises. You should also make sure your artificial nails aren’t sitting on top of your cuticles; the cuticle covers the nail matrix and, for the reasons mentioned above, you don’t definitely don’t want any undue pressure in this area.
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You can also consider utilizing a nail guard like the Shanrya Nail Guard Manicure Nail Art Stickers ($5, Amazon). “These are thin, clear strips that you apply to your natural nail, and then stick the press-on over top,” Hanna says. “The adhesive they use is much gentler than any type of nail glue,” she adds, noting that they’re especially great if you’re tempted to pop off your falsies. Even if you do, they’ll take off that underlying guard rather than parts of your nail plate, she explains.
When it’s time for your press-ons to go, step one is to read the directions. “Following all of the removal instructions for the particular product you’re using is the best way to minimize damage to the nail plate,” Dr. King says. Hanna advises using a dedicated nail adhesive remover. She likes the Static Nails 100% Non-Toxic Odorless Polish & Pop-On Remover ($24, Static Nails).
Alternatively, you can also soak your fingertips in warm, soapy water. Just be patient: Wait 15 to 20 minutes, then give the fake nail a wiggle; it should start to slide off, Dr. Ibrahim says. Not quite there yet? Cue up your favorite mindless show and settle in for more soaking, until the press-ons practically come off on their own, he says. Once they’re all off, wash your hands thoroughly to remove any leftover residue from the adhesive or remover, then swipe cuticle oil on your hands and nails to add back much-needed moisture, he adds.
If you don’t want to deal with a long soaking session, Hanna says riding out your manicure for a few more days before trying to remove it is often the best move. The adhesive will gradually break down on its own as you use your hands, shower, and generally go about your business, making the removal process easier, she explains. You can also slather cuticle oil all over the base of your nails; it will ultimately work its way under the press-on and help break down the adhesive, she notes.
Once you’re back to bare, Dr. Ibrahim recommends giving your nails a little break before your next press-on set. You should wear fake nails for one to two weeks, then take a week off. This gives you time to add back lots of moisture to the nail and surrounding skin via a cuticle oil or even just plain old hand cream, Dr. Ibrahim says.
The takeaway: As long as you’re being mindful when you apply and remove them, you can feel confident that press-ons aren’t going to take a serious toll on your tips. They’re also an easy, relatively inexpensive, and fun manicure option—and isn’t having fun the whole point of doing your nails to begin with?
Related:
- The Case for the ‘Mental Health Manicure’
- How to Maintain Healthy Nails and Cuticles at Home
- Dermatologists Swear By This Drugstore Nail Strengthener
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